Mitsubishi Corporation Lucite brand acrylic raw material
Ocean Park, Hotel, Shopping Center, Theme Park, Zoo
Wooden box, iron frame
Provide technical guidance and on-site installation services
Transparency reaches 93%
Can customize cylindrical cylinders of different sizes
Clear transparency, 93%
Leyu Acrylic Aquarium factory specialized in customized aquarium fish tank, fish tank made of Mitsubishi raw materials, transparency reached 93%, to meet international standards, acrylic sheet splicing using the body polymerization process, seamless docking, strong and safe. Acrylic aquarium in addition to cuboid, can also be cylindrical, square, arc, bullet shape, peanut shape, Leyu can make a variety of shapes, different sizes of acrylic aquarium, product quality is worthy of your trust.
The maximum size of the acrylic cylinder made by Leyu is 10 meters in diameter and 14 meters in height.
crylic aquarium tank is prone to algae,Algae is a natural part of the aquarium ecosystem because it helps purify toxic waste chemicals from the water and serves as a food source for fish and invertebrates that feed on the algae. However, most people consider it an unwelcome guest because too much algae can block your view of the tank and slow the healthy growth of the plants.How to get rid of algae in fish tankis a problem that all fishfarmers need to solve.
Let's talk about 5 easy ways to remove algae from aquarium walls and decorations.
Use an algae scraper or clean, non-abrasive sponge to physically remove algae from tank walls and decorations. Gently scrub the affected area, applying moderate pressure to remove the algae.
A simple toothbrush is perfect for scrubbing hard-to-reach areas, aquarium decorations, hard landscapes, and even plant leaves. Certain types of trichoalgae can be removed by gripping the algae filaments with the bristles of a toothbrush and twisting the toothbrush so that the algae curls up like spaghetti on a fork. Finally, if you see blue-green algae or brown diatoms starting to cover the substrate, you can vacuum the gravel or sand with an aquarium siphon.
When scrubbing manually, be careful not to scratch the tank glass or damage any delicate decorations.
This way the tools are simple and easy to operate, so it can produce results immediately without waiting, This is the first method of How to get rid of algae in fish tank.
The algae magnet cleaner consists of two magnets, one with a cleaning pad on the inside of the tank and the other with a handle on the outside.
Move the outer magnet along the glass while the inner magnet follows, effectively removing algae from the inner surface.
Choose a magnet cleaner suitable for the thickness of the tank glass.This is the second method of How to get rid of algae in fish tank.
Introduce algae-eating fish, such as stonefish, Siamese algavorous fish, or certain species of catfish, to help control algae growth.
In addition, certain invertebrates, such as snails, shrimp, or shallow sea snails that feed on algae, can efficiently consume algae.
However, it is important to study the compatibility and specific care requirements of these organisms with existing fish. Because a) each algae-eating species only eats certain kinds of algae, and b) they may not be able to completely clean your entire aquarium. However, they are a good second line of defense that can help you fight algae. For nanocanks, our favorites include shallow sea snails, Omani shrimp, or a school of auricinaceae catfish. For larger tanks, let some mane or Siamese algae-eaters cover more area.
This is the third method of How to get rid of algae in fish tank.
Algaecide or algal treatment can be used as a last resort for severe or persistent algal problems.
Please carefully follow the instructions that come with the product, as different treatments may have specific dosage and application instructions.
Be careful when using chemical treatments, as they may harm sensitive fish, invertebrates, or beneficial bacteria in the tank. Remove all activated carbon from the filter before processing.
This is the fourth method of How to get rid of algae in fish tank.
Algae thrive in the presence of excess light and nutrients. Reduce the duration and intensity of aquarium lighting to limit algae growth. Avoid overfeeding fish, as uneaten food can cause nutrient accumulation and promote algae growth.
Consider using a timer to adjust the lighting schedule and ensure consistent exposure.
Regular maintenance of the tank, including partial water changes and maintaining proper water parameters, can also help prevent algae growth. In addition, keeping live plants in the tank can help absorb excess nutrients and compete with algae for resources.
To balance the growing tank, we recommend using an outlet timer to turn on the lights for about 6-8 hours per day (as a starting point), then gradually increasing or decreasing the nutrient level as needed. If nitrate levels are higher than 50 ppm, a water change is performed to dilute the amount of nitrogen waste. If the nitrate level is below 20 ppm, add Easy Green all-in-one fertilizer to the tank until the water reaches 20 ppm nitrate. Wait 2-3 weeks between each modification of light or nutrient levels so you can see the effect it has on your plants and adjust accordingly. You can never completely remove all traces of algae, so our goal is to minimize the algae until it's barely noticeable.
This is the fifth method of How to get rid of algae in fish tank.
Remember, How to get rid of algae in fish tank, it's important to identify the specific type of algae you're dealing with to determine the most effective cleaning methods and prevent potential harm to your fish and aquarium ecosystem.
Many people like aquariums. Regarding aquarium equipment, many beginners will not use it. They need a fully automatic circulation system to achieve automatic feeding, automatic temperature control, and automatic water change. This is an ideal state, and the working principle of the water circulation system must be understood. This includes installing pumps, filters and decorations before adding properly filtered water. Below you can find information on what cycling is, why it's important, and how to cycle your aquarium.
Aquarium cycling is the process of establishing and maturing the biological filtration system in a new aquarium. It involves creating a stable and balanced ecosystem by cultivating beneficial bacteria that help break down toxic waste products produced by fish and other organisms in the tank.
The primary goal of aquarium cycling is to establish a colony of nitrifying bacteria, specifically Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter, which play a crucial role in the nitrogen cycle.
Fish waste, uneaten food, and decaying matter produce ammonia, which is highly toxic to fish. Initially, ammonia levels may rise in the aquarium, posing a risk to the health of the fish.
Nitrosomonas bacteria convert ammonia into nitrite through a process called nitrification. Nitrite is still harmful to fish but is less toxic than ammonia.
Nitrobacter bacteria further convert nitrite into nitrate. Nitrate is less toxic than both ammonia and nitrite, but high levels can still be detrimental to fish if not managed properly.
During the cycling process, beneficial bacteria gradually colonize the filter media, substrate, and various surfaces in the aquarium. These bacteria convert ammonia into nitrite and then nitrate, which is ultimately removed through water changes or absorbed by live plants.
Set up the tank: Install the filter, heater, and other equipment. Add dechlorinated water and prepare the substrate and decorations.
Add a source of ammonia: To initiate the cycling process, introduce a source of ammonia, such as fish food or pure ammonia. This simulates the waste produced by fish.
Regularly test the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels using appropriate test kits. Record the results to track the progress of the cycling process.
Over time, beneficial bacteria will start to colonize the tank. This process can take several weeks as the bacterial populations grow and establish themselves.
During the cycling process, perform partial water changes to keep ammonia and nitrite levels as low as possible and to remove excess nitrate. Regularly clean the filter media according to the manufacturer's instructions to prevent clogging and maintain optimal bacterial colonization.
The cycling process is considered complete when ammonia and nitrite levels consistently measure zero, and nitrate is present in measurable but safe levels.
Once the aquarium has completed the cycling process, it is safe to gradually introduce fish into the tank. It's important to start with a small number of hardy fish to avoid overwhelming the system. Ongoing maintenance, including regular water testing, water changes, and filter maintenance, will help maintain a healthy and stable aquarium environment for your fish.
Before fish are introduced into the environment, nitrifying bacteria must spread themselves across the aquarium’s biological filters to handle the volume of ammonia produced by the fish. If fish are introduced to the tank too quickly or if too many fish are introduced at once, the biofilters will not be able to keep up with the amount of ammonia produced by the fish. Even after cycling an aquarium properly, it is best to introduce your fish one at a time to ensure the tank is biologically prepared for more fish.
If you do not cycle your aquarium, the nitrogen cycle will still occur, but your fish will likely be harmed in the process. The effects of built-up toxins in a new aquarium contribute to what is known as “New Tank Syndrome.” Species of fish that are not hardy are more prone to symptoms of ammonia exposure and require a cycled aquarium to live healthy lives.
How long does an aquarium take to cycle?
Aquariums generaThe duration of the aquarium cycling process can vary depending on several factors, including the method used, the source of bacteria, and the overall conditions of the tank. Typically, the cycling process takes anywhere from 2 to 8 weeks to complete, but it can take longer in some cases.
Here is a general timeline of the cycling process:
After adding a source of ammonia to the tank, whether it's fish food or pure ammonia, it can take a few days for the ammonia levels to increase.
Growth of Nitrosomonas bacteria:
As the ammonia levels rise, the beneficial bacteria known as Nitrosomonas start to colonize the tank. This process can take approximately 1 to 2 weeks, but it can vary.
Conversion of ammonia to nitrite:
Once the Nitrosomonas bacteria have established themselves, they convert ammonia into nitrite through a process called nitrification. This stage can take a few more weeks, during which the nitrite levels gradually increase.
Growth of Nitrobacter bacteria:
As the nitrite levels rise, another type of beneficial bacteria called Nitrobacter begins to establish itself. These bacteria convert nitrite into nitrate.
Nitrate production and stabilization:
Once the Nitrobacter bacteria have colonized the tank, the nitrite levels decrease, and nitrate levels rise. At this stage, the cycling process is near completion. Nitrate can be managed through regular water changes and the presence of live plants.
It's important to note that during the cycling process, ammonia and nitrite levels may fluctuate, and spikes in these levels can occur. Regular testing of water parameters is crucial to monitor the progress of the cycling and ensure the safety of the fish.
Factors such as the use of beneficial bacteria additives or seeding the tank with established filter media from another aquarium can potentially speed up the cycling process. However, it's still important to allow sufficient time for the bacteria to establish and the nitrogen cycle to stabilize before adding fish to the tank.
To cycle an aquarium, you will need the following items:
A suitable aquarium tank of an appropriate size for the fish species you plan to keep.
A filtration system for the aquarium that provides mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. A filter helps remove debris, chemicals, and promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria.
The substrate is the material placed at the bottom of the tank. It can be gravel, sand, or specialized substrates. The substrate provides a surface for beneficial bacteria to colonize.
A water conditioner is used to remove chlorine, chloramine, and other harmful chemicals from tap water. It makes the water safe for fish and helps maintain their health during the cycling process.
Test kits are essential for monitoring water parameters during the cycling process. You will need kits to measure ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels. Liquid test kits are more accurate than test strips.
Source of ammonia:
Ammonia is needed to kick-start the cycling process. You can use fish food, pure ammonia (free of additives and scents), or established filter media from a cycled aquarium as a source of ammonia.
Heater (if required):
If you plan to keep tropical fish that require a specific temperature range, you will need a heater to maintain the appropriate water temperature.
A thermometer is used to monitor the water temperature and ensure it remains within the desired range for the fish.
Beneficial bacteria additives (optional):
While not necessary, some aquarists choose to use beneficial bacteria additives to accelerate the cycling process. These products contain live bacteria cultures that can help establish the beneficial bacterial colony more quickly.
Cycling an aquarium takes time, so having patience is crucial. It usually takes several weeks for the beneficial bacteria to establish and the nitrogen cycle to stabilize.
It's important to note that while setting up the aquarium, ensure you have a suitable environment for the fish species you plan to keep, including proper decor, hiding places, and appropriate water parameters.
By having the necessary equipment and materials, as well as monitoring the water parameters, you can successfully cycle your aquarium and create a healthy and stable environment for your fish.
Cycling with fish
Cycling a tank with fish is similar to cycling a tank without fish, but the source of ammonia differs. Rather than adding food to the water, the fish provide ammonia in the form of waste. In addition, you will need to perform frequent water changes with fish present. Fish-in cycling is not recommended in most situations, but it can be effective if you populate your tank with hardy fish.
1. Set up the tank’s components
This step is identical to step one of fishless cycling. Before you add fish to your tank, ensure all components are installed properly and are in working order. This includes all pumps, filters, bubblers, temperature regulators, and all other components. This creates a suitable environment for your fish to live in.
2. Add a few hardy fish to the tank
Hardy fish are less affected by ammonia and other contaminants than most fish species, so they are the only suitable type of fish to be in the tank while cycling. Do not add more than three fish to the tank. If too many fish live in the tank during the cycle, they will produce too much waste and cause ammonia levels to spike too high.
3. Feed the fish
Once the fish have been added, you will want to feed them sparingly. This can mean feeding them less frequently or feeding them smaller amounts at a normal frequency. Avoid overfeeding the fish, as this will cause them to produce more waste and lead to the additional production of ammonia via decayed food. Once the cycle kicks off, you can begin feeding the fish regular amounts of food.
4. Perform water changes
Change about 10 to 20 percent of the tank’s water twice every week. This helps regulate ammonia, nitrite, and other contaminants’ levels. Water changes of this frequency should continue as long as your aquarium operates.
5. Monitor contamination levels
While making water changes, you will need to constantly monitor the tank's ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Once the nitrate levels remain consistent and the ammonia and nitrite levels are undetectable, the cycle has been completed. Additional fish can then be added to the tank.
Cycling with plants
Aquarium cycling with plants is far less predictable of a method than fishless and fish-in cycling. Plant death and algae growth can cause the cycle to fail and require you to start the process over. As a result, this method is not recommended over fishless cycling, but it is more humane than fish-in cycling. Before cycling a tank with plants, you will need to purchase nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
1. Setup the components of the aquarium
Like step one in the previous methods, ensure that all pumps, bubblers, filters, heaters, and other components are added to the aquarium.
Before adding plants to the aquarium, disinfect them to reduce the risk of outside bacteria and parasites from harming the tank’s environment. Hardy plants are the best plant type to add to an aquarium while cycling. Water column feeders are ideal because they absorb ammonia and nitrate better than other plant types.
The lighting of a planted aquarium is essential in allow the plant to photosynthesize. Ensure that the lighting setup you use is optimal for your plants both while cycling and after. At this stage, plants should receive about ten to twelve hours of light per day.
Now that the lighting is set up, you can add fertilizer to the tank. If you are using water column feeders, liquid fertilizer is the best option. For root plants, place root tabs directly under the plants’ roots.
When cycling with plants, you should change about 30 percent of the tank’s water each week. This reduces algae growth, especially in the first few weeks after introducing plants to the water.
If you see new growth in your tank, that is a sign that the tank is completing its cycle. You may notice some algae growth along the tank walls and substrate. In this phase, some algae growth is acceptable because it signals there are enough nutrients for the plants to thrive. If your tank has an abundance of algae, lower the lighting duration to about eight to ten hours a day.
Throughout this process, you will need to monitor the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels of the aquarium’s water. To test if your tank is cycled, add around one ppm of ammonia to the tank. If ammonia levels are undetectable after 24 hours, nitrites are undetectable, and nitrates are present, the tank has completed its cycle.
Adding bacteria manually can help a tank cycle quickly, but it can lead to problems for your fish later on. If you choose to speed up the hydrogen cycle in your tank, you will need a filter and substrate from an already cycled tank to produce the most desirable results. While bottled bacteria and recycled filters and substrate speed up the nitrogen cycle, the best option for your aquarium is to let the process carry out naturally.